Guinea Pig Hut


DIET




Guinea pigs are herbivores. This means that their diet consists exclusively of plant and vegetable matter. It is essential that they have a high-fiber, low-fat-content diet rich in vitamin C, which can not be produced by guinea pigs as it can by all other mammals excluding primates. Any deficiency will result in poor health. The components of a healthy guinea pig's diet should include unlimited fresh hay, fresh leafy greens, fresh guinea pig pellets, some fresh vegetables and fruits, and fresh water. Any other foods should be regarded as nonessential and supplied as treats on a limited basis. 

Always take the time to watch your guinea pig when it is eating. You will learn much about its eating habits. Any change in these habits may be the first sign of a problem. Some guinea pigs are greedy feeders; others are dainty. A guinea pig that refuses a favourite item suggests a problem. One that is suddenly eating or drinking more than usual may also have a problem. Of course, a pregnant female or a guinea pig with an illness would be expected to eat and drink more than a nonbreeding individual.

If your guinea pig is recieving a balanced diet, it will display good body substance, being neither fat nor thin. It will be alert and active-the guinea pig is also known as the restless guinea pig-and it will display an obvious healthy coat. If your guinea pig does not present this kind of appearance, you should seek vet advice.

  • 70% of a guinea pig's diet is hay.
  • 20% is pellets.
  • 10% is vegetables and fruits.




You should feed your guinea pig one cup of vegetables daily. These foods have a very limited exposure life, and quickly sour if not eaten within a few hours. After such periods, any that is left should be removed and thrown out. It is best to feed fresh foods early in the day, or in the late afternoon/evening, when it is normally a little cooler and you are able to devote more time to your guinea pig. Make sure you rinse the vegetables thoroughly, and do not feed wilted or spoiled food. Vegetables must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets. Once introduced, you can supply a variety of them to your pet. Variety is the key to maintaining your guinea pigs health. So be creative. 

(*) = High in vitamin C
(!) = Feed in moderation
  • Alfalfa sprouts
  • Asparagus
  • Beetroot
  • Beetroot greens
  • Broccoli (*) (!)
  • Brussel sprouts (*)
  • Cabbage (chinese/pak-choi)
  • Cabbage (green)!
  • Cabbage (red)
  • Capsicum (green) (*)
  • Capsicum (red) (*)
  • Carrot!
  • Carrot (baby)
  • Carrot greens
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Celery greens
  • Chard (swiss)
  • Chicory greens
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Corn (white)
  • Cucumber
  • Dandelion greens
  • Dill weed (*)
  • Green beans
  • Kale/curly kale (*)
  • Kohlrabi (*)
  • Lettuce (bibb)
  • Lettuce (boston)
  • Lettuce (loose leaf)
  • Lettuce (romaine/cos)
  • Mustard greens (*)
  • Okra
  • Parsley (*)
  • Parsnips
  • Potato (sweet) (!)
  • Pumpkin
  • Purslane
  • Rutabaga
  • Spinach 
  • Spinach (mustard) (*)
  • Squash (summer, all varieties)
  • Squash (winter, all varieties)
  • Turnip 
  • Turnip greens (*)
  • Watercress
  • Zuchini


You should feed your guinea pig one cup of fuits weekly. These foods have a very limited exposure life, and quickly sour if not eaten within a few hours. After such periods, any that is left should be removed and thrown out. It is best to feed fresh foods early in the day, or in the late afternoon/evening, when it is normally a little cooler and you are able to devote more time to your guinea pig. Make sure you rinse the fuits thoroughly, and do not feed wilted or spoiled food. Fruits must be introduced slowly, to avoid digestive upsets. Once introduced, you can supply a variety of them to your pet. Variety is the key to maintaining your guinea pigs health. So be creative. 

(*) = High in vitamin C
(!) = Feed in moderation
  • Apple
  • Apricot
  • Banana!
  • Blackberries
  • Blueberries
  • Rock melon/cantaloupe
  • Casaba melon
  • Cherries (sweet)
  • Cranberries
  • Grapefruit (pink)
  • Grapefruit (red)
  • Grapefruit (white)
  • Grapes!
  • Honeydew melon
  • Kiwi (*)
  • Lemon (*) (!)
  • Lime!
  • Mango
  • Nectarine
  • Orange (*) (!)
  • Papaya/paw paw (*)
  • Peach
  • Pear
  • Persimmon (japanese)
  • Plum
  • Raisins (seedless)
  • Raspberries
  • Strawberries (*)
  • Tangerine
  • Watermelon


  • Anything not listed on the vegetable or fruit lists.




Guinea pigs can not produce their own vitamin C, so they need 10 to 30 mg/kg daily to prevent scurvy. While many guinea pigs receive adequate vitamin C from fresh vegetables and pellets, you may wish to ensure your guinea pig gets adequate vitamin C by giving a quarter of a 100 mg chewable or plain vitamin C tablet, or provide a small amount of liquid vitamin C drops to each guinea pig. Young, ill, nursing, and pregnant guinea pigs require extra vitamin C. If your guinea pig is eating a varied, well-balanced diet and is in good health, the addition of extra vitamins could create problems. Vitamins and minerals should be supplied only under the advice of a vet after he has examined your guinea pig.

Reasons for not adding vitamin C to their drinking water:
Water is vital to their good health. Vitamin C will change the flavour of the water, and they may not like the taste, and will not drink their water, which is very bad.
It is usless, because when vitamin C is added to water, it rapidly loses its vitamin C content. 
Some don't drink a lot of water, and some drink very little, so it is impossible to know how much vitamin C your guinea pig is getting.

Note:

Please make sure you never give your guinea pig multivitamins.



Water should be fresh, cold, changed daily, and available at all times. It should be provided in a gravity-fed water bottle or a small heavy ceramic bowl to prevent tipping. Water bottles have the advantage that the water remains clean and free from fouling by dust or bedding material. The disadvantage is that it takes your pet a long time to drink sufficiently from it. Open bowls provide water in a more natural manner, but some fouling is inevitable, which means daily cleaning. This of course ensures that the water is fresh. If a bottle is used, be sure to obtain one of the better models to reduce the risk of water leaking-one with a metal tip is preferred. position the bottle so that it is easily reached by your guinea pig. Avoid distilled water. Avoid water high in minerals, especially if high in calcium. Do not put vitamins or medications in the water.
Wing Sang Cheong
Optional:
Try giving them unsweetened, natural cranberry juice, and place it in their water bottle. Make sure you change the bottle containing the cranberry juice daily. Plain, unsweetened cranberry juice is quite strong and bitter in taste, so add some water to it. Cranberry juice can interfere with the development of a UTI, and can cut the incidence of them in half.



You should feed your guinea pig half a cup of pellets daily. Pellets and other dried foods can normally be left in dishes until eaten. They should be provided in a small, heavy, ceramic bowl to prevent tipping. They do not deteriorate very quickly and are minimally attractive to flies and other insects. Pelleted food has the advantage of convinience and is rich in important nutrients. Because the pellets are in a dried form, they are very concentrated; so it is easy to feed excess amounts. Be sure the pellets are those fortified with vitamin C. Do not purchase excess amounts. The vitamin C content deteriorates significantly by the end of 60 days as a result of exposure to air, dampness, and heat. Store in well-ventilated but dry, cool cupboard. Keep the bag sealed after each use.

Many cereal crops, together with seeds such as canary, sunflower, and panicum, will be eaten by guinea pigs. As with many food items, your pet may be selective. If you are feeding hay, pellets, and mixed plants, care should be exercised in feeding of high-protein and high-carbohydrate seeds and grain. Obesity might become a problem. Reduce the quantity of pellets when feeding seed and grain. Baked bread, pellets, and small branches of fruit and other edible trees are required to ensure that your guinea pig's teeth stay at the required length. If a guinea pig does not have sufficient, hard items on which to gnaw, its incisor teeth will grow to an excessive length, which creates major problems. You should regularly check to see that the incisors are being kept at a suitable length. If you see either the top or bottom teeth getting too long, consult your vet right away. The teeth can be trimmed, and you can adjust the diet to provide the correct food items. If you ignore this advice, the teeth may grow into the opposite jaw, or curl outside the mouth, making it impossible for the guinea pig to eat.


 High quality hay should be available at all times. This is because it keeps their digestive system moving and helps prevent their teeth from over growing. It is especially beneficial to longhaired guinea pigs in helping to prevent hairballs, and to all guinea pigs in helping to minimize the risk of diarrhoea and its related problems. It should be provided in a hay rack/manager off the ground for cleanliness.

There are numerous types of hay. You can purchase mixed grass hay, timothy hay, or oaten hay. Alfalfa hay is acceptable but is rather richer in calories and calcium. It is immportant that the hay is fresh. That which is produced commercially for pet stores is excellent. Never feed hay that looks "off" or smells other than fresh hay. It will cause stomach upsets. Store hay in a cool area that is well ventialted to avoid fungal spores from developing.


 

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